Buenos Aires 2.0

So here I sit at the end of my second week here in BA.  The time is absolutely flying by (yikes) but I always remember to stop and enjoy every second that goes by.

Tuesday I went with LIFE coordinator Jeremy Thierry out to the community center in Laferrere.  Laferrere is about 20 miles southwest of Buenos Aires.  Transportation out to Laferrere is a bit more involved than going to the other LIFE centers.  This center involves taking the public bus or "colectivo" for the first part of the journey. The colectivo is considered a source of pride in Argentina.  They represent one of the best known traditions in the country.  Back in the day, each one was uniquely hand-painted with phrases, graphics, etc in a style called fileteado.  Sadly, that tradition is not as prevalent but you can still catch a few old decorated buses around the city.  The bus map or "Guia T" is a 100 pages of maps & routes so you know what bus # to take.  You essentially find your starting point and end point on the map.  Then look to see what bus #'s might match those two locations.  If bus #60 stops at both places...well then you take bus #60.  When you go to the bus stop (and there are many), you must hail the driver like a taxi otherwise he won't stop.  When you get on the bus (and do it as quickly as possible) the driver dictates the fare based on how far you are going.  Fares can range from $1.10 - $1.60 (or 28 - 41 cents US).   Drivers have been known to charge gringos more if you're holding him up.  You then need to quickly find a seat because drivers have a heavy foot for both accelerating AND breaking!

The Guia "T" de Bolsillo

Each line/route has a uniquely decorated bus

After we were tossed around like rag dolls for 30 minutes or so, we got off at Plaza de Mayo and walked a couple of blocks to get the micro omnibus.  I am still not exactly clear how people know to stand out in front of Cafe Tortoni to get on a small bus that goes to Laferrere.  There is no sign, nothing.  Just a line of people waiting to go home.  I see this all around the city...a long line of people waiting patiently to go "somewhere". The omnibus fare was $6 pesos each and we had heating, a comfortable seat and a driver that apparently passed driving school.  We finally reached Laferrere in a little over an hour.  Phew!  Now, we walk.  We pick up a good pace to get to the community center quickly.  We are walking through a poor but only semi-dangerous part of town.  Jeremy tells me that the end of the street is a very very dangerous place and I point to the area he is referring to get confirmation because we seem awfully close.  He says sharply, "don't point"...shit...I've already failed Ghetto 101.  

We arrive at the center and basically it's a large room in someones household.  There are tables, chairs, bookshelves, etc.  I think this family is compensated for use of their property and they are asked to be the community "leader".  This finally made sense to me at the Kid's Day event on Saturday.  Like my time at Los Angelitos last Friday, we greet the local leader, make small talk and get to organizing the room before the kids show up.  We open the front door and that's a signal to the kids that we are open for business.  They come pouring in one by one, "hola" after "hola".  We have pages for them to color (spongebob and spiderman seem to be faves) and other projects designed by the LIFE coordinator.  After a few hours, we make hot chocolate and give the kids alfajors (cookies) as a snack.  The kids are really so sweet and happy to be there.  While many of them don't like doing school type work and would rather color or play, it's time off the dangerous streets and that is a very good thing.